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XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro : test / review

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Published on: 03-03-2026 / Modified: 04-03-2026
XGIMI launched its new Horizon 20 range in October 2025. I was lucky enough to test the Horizon 20 Max before the launch, and I tested the Horizon 20 a few weeks later. For the Pro version, I had to wait a few months for stock to stabilize. The Horizon 20 range has been a huge success, and in all the years I've been testing projectors (9 years now), I've never seen anything like it. This article is therefore behind my usual schedule, but that's okay. I'm going to test this model with my usual protocol, but this test will be followed by a comparison between the Horizon 20, Horizon 20 Pro and Horizon 20 Max to help you make the right choice.

As always, the Horizon 20 Pro is available on the official website:

XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro / XGIMI.com

Manufacturer web site:
https://www.xgimi.com

Timeline

March 3, 2026: reception of the XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro. The full test will be available in about 2 weeks. I'll publish the results as I find them. A comparison of the 3 projectors will follow.

Why this projector?

The most frequent question I've received concerning the Horizon 20 range is which projector to choose? On the one hand, you have marketing and certain influencers who will push you towards the Max version because it's the best projector in the range. Technically, this is undoubtedly true, but the reality is sometimes very different. The XGIMI Horizon 20 Max isn't suitable for every situation; the Pro could well be a perfectly adequate candidate in a large number of cases. That's the aim of this article and the comparison that follows.

Unpacking

The projectors in the Horizon 20 range are very well packaged, which should reassure those who hesitate to order internally. I'll skip the marketing packaging, even though it plays its part in the projector's first impression, and focus on the cocoon-like rigid foam shell. This type of protection is becoming increasingly common at XGIMI and other brands. Even if there's no such thing as zero risk, with such a cocoon the projector is rudely well protected.

In this cocoon we obviously find the projector, but also its charger, remote control, two AAA batteries and a manual.



The remote control is the same for all 3 projectors in the range, and broadly incorporates the functions and design of XGIMI's other top-of-the-range projectors. Backlit, it lights up automatically when it detects movement. Buttons are easy to locate, and most streaming applications have their own button. It's partially encased in metal, so it's not the kind of remote that'll squeak with every click.

Operating system

This projector runs on Google TV, which has become the standard for this type of projector, and that's a good thing. I think that the use of Google TV is a favorable factor for the adoption of this kind of product, it's a simple and intuitive interface. The ability to add phone-like applications can potentially turn your projector into a home multimedia station. Nothing new here, but if you're one of the first projector buyers, using Google TV won't be a hindrance to your first venture into the world of video projectors

Well, yeah, okay, it's Google and you've got to assume that everything you do with the projector will end up on a server in the U.S. and that Donald will be able to access it whenever he wants, but it's no different from any other device using Google's services. Personally, I don't give a damn if Donald finds out I'm watching videos that criticize him.

Finish

XGIMI has been using the rocker format for its lifestyle projectors for just over a year now, and the models are so similar they could be confused. The Horizon 20 range uses exactly the same chassis, the only way to tell them apart is by the optical compartment, where the Pro and Max have a red circle around the optical compartment, whereas the basic version has a black circle. As for the rest, it's all the same

Let's talk about the optical compartment first..



The optical compartment of the Horizon 20 Pro and Horizon 20 Max is identical, and has a name: X-Master Red Ring Lens. According to the XGIMI website, this optical block has the following features:

- 99.6% light transmission

- 84% more luminosity

- 14 layers

- suppression of spherical aberrations

I don't know what they're comparing these figures to, so I can't check if they're correct. What I can do, however, is compare the light diffusion between the 3 models, and without spoiling the surprise, I did measure a difference between the Pro and the normal version, but it's not gigantic. In fact, that's the feeling I've had from the start: the Pro and Max's optics are of better quality, but that doesn't mean that the Horizon 20's are of poor quality. I've never really noticed any problems with XGIMI's optics, and it's especially at the lower end of the LCD range that the quality is clearly inferior

Numbers are all well and good, but there's another interesting thing about this lens. It is equipped with a zoom AND an optical shift called lens-shift. This feature allows the image to be reoriented vertically at 120° and horizontally at 45° without any loss of quality or image resizing. There is a slight loss of brightness, but unlike trapezoid correction, there is no large gray border around the image when using lens-shift. The same goes for the zoom - it's an optical zoom, so there's no degradation here either



For film buffs, there's also the Imax function, which lets you watch films adapted to a cinema-style format. Although this is undoubtedly interesting, I don't consider it to be something extraordinary, as the content has to be suitable for it, and the screens aren't adapted to this format anyway



As for the sound, there's nothing new, but that's not a problem. We find the same Harman Kardon speakers as on the previous generation, delivering 2x15 watts with good sound quality. I'll come back to this point more specifically later in my review



At the rear we find a good level of connectivity with a digital audio output (spdif), a USB2.0 output, a USB3.0 output, two HDMI ports including 1 in eARC and an audio output for headphones.



The tilting format offers great placement flexibility, enabling you to use the projector for perpendicular ceiling projection, for example. It's important to realize, however, that this flexibility can also bring its share of problems.

If the projector's orientation is not perpendicular to the projection surface, the projector will apply corrections to position the image correctly. This feature works very well, but it's important to remember that it doesn't modify the projection cone; it simply reduces the brightness of off-screen pixels. Unfortunately, there's no such thing as complete black with a projector, so you'll see a gray border around your image. This is not a problem specific to XGIMI, it's a problem that affects ALL projectors using keystone correction. Those of you who read me often must be getting tired of reading this remark, but I still get a lot of messages from people who don't understand why they observe a large gray border around their screen



The rotating base can be attached to a standard screw thread. XGIMI sells weighted tripods specially adapted for this type of projector. The latest version of this tripod is less rigid, and that's a good thing, because in the event of jostling, the base will capsize less quickly.

As I've tested the other projectors in this range, I feel as though I'm repeating myself in writing these lines, but on the physical part of the product, the only difference is the optical unit. Everything else is identical on all 3 models.

Projection room

My projection room is rectangular, 4.6m by 2.9m (height 2.2m). I have two projection walls, one white wall 2.9m wide with just white paint with a possible 4m setback. I then have a 133 inch ALR screen on another wall with a possible setback of 2.8m. I mainly use the ALR screen except when the layout or type of projector is not suitable for this situation.

Battery autonomy

This projector is not equipped with a battery.

Power consumption

I measured a power consumption of between 61 watts (laser 1) and 128 watts (laser 10); the projector will consume a little more in boost and high power modes, but these modes modify the colors too much to be usable. With this level of power consumption, this is a projector with a good power/brightness ratio

Operating noise

If I put my dB meter on the projector when it's in operation, I get a value of less than 40 db, so if I move away this value will drop even further. This projector is very quiet, only if you activate the high power mode does it turn into a hairdryer.

Image quality

Not yet available / tested

Colorimetry

More explanations on colorimetry

Measuring color fidelity (colorimetry) is not a subjective question, it is something completely measurable. This measurement is carried out with a device (colorimeter, spectrometer, ...) which measures the difference between the real color and the displayed color. This difference is expressed in delta E (abbreviation: dE). A dE greater than 3 indicates a deviation perceptible to the human eye.

The dE must therefore be as low as possible but projectors rarely have a dE lower than 3 out of the box. They are often between 5 and 10, only a calibration can correctly adjust the colors.

For a perfect calibration, you must call a professional. I give you my parameters which correspond to my situation. These settings might work for your situation but it is not a guarantee, so take them as an indication of the direction to follow.

Color fidelity is a challenge for projector manufacturers, because even though recent XGIMIs are factory-calibrated, they cannot take into account the environment in which they will be used.

The Horizon 20 generation has made such a quantum leap in colorimetry that, in principle, you don't need to do anything to get the colors right - just choose the "Film" configuration and "D65" for color temperature. The other configurations are too different. Color fidelity in Film/D65 mode is good for all models in the Horizon 20 range, provided you are close enough to laboratory conditions: total darkness and a neutral white (Lambertian) screen. If you use an ALR-type screen, you'll considerably alter the colorimetry, but that's the same for all projectors.

With Film/D65, I get a delta E close to 3.08 for primary/secondary/white colors on my white screen and 2.41 for grays. Why not even better? My white screen isn't totally neutral, causing a slight drift in green and blue. On a more neutral screen, the result is undoubtedly better, but at 120€ for 130 inches, I can't be picky.

The delta E of 3 is an average of primary colors, secondary colors and white. This doesn't mean that all colors are below 3. White, for example, is around 6, with a slightly too warm white (yellow tint). By way of comparison, the "standard" configuration has a too-cool white with a delta E close to 13. This shows just how wide the gap is between Film/D65 and the other configurations.

Here's a table showing white, primaries and secondaries. Here I compare the color as it should be and the Film/D65 mode.


And for greys:


As you can see, in most cases, the overall result is quite good. I repeat, these are results for a screen with a slight drift.

If I now modify the configuration manually to achieve perfection for my screen, I get this:


And for greys:


The colorimetry here is absolutely perfect. I obtained a delta E of 1.61 for primaries/secondaries/whites and 1.97 for grays. Here's the visual result:

I'm sharing my settings in the section provided to help you achieve a similar result at home. You'll probably need to add a little green, as my screen generates a little too much. This configuration is intended for a laser level of 10, so it's not the ideal scenario for a dark room, but it gives you a basis for your setup.

The same applies to HDR. The Film/D65 configuration is the best, and the color space almost matches REC2020. Few films today exploit such a wide color gamut, but with this projector you're a few years ahead of film production.

If you decide to use an ALR screen, you'll need to modify the settings, as this type of screen cools the image, sometimes greatly increasing the proportion of blue. If this is the case, I advise you to lower the blue in the white balance to 2 points and increase the red a little.

Image Settings
To get a better colorimetric result, I used the following settings:

- White balance 2 points:

Red 68

Green 26

Blue 34

- White balance 12 points / 90%:

Red 44

Green 50

Blue 50

These results are valid for my screen. I know that my screen drifts a little towards green, so you'll need to increase the proportion of green a little if you have a neutral screen

For an ALR screen, I don't have a miracle method because the difference between 2 ALR screens will be much greater than between 2 neutral white screens. My advice is to reduce the blue quite a lot (around 20), increase the red around 70-80 and reduce the green a little. From there, you'll already notice differences in white temperature, and even if it's not an exact science, your feeling will be an important criterion in your perception of color. And don't forget that triple laser projectors can induce errors of perception that differ from one person to another. I tend to perceive pure white as being a little greenish, whereas when measured, white is perfect.

Brightness

More explanations on brightness

The brightness for a projector is absolutely crucial. The brightness is measured in ANSI lumens and the values provided by the manufacturer are very often higher than reality.

I measure the brightness with a lux meter and I convert my measurements into ANSI lumens in relation to the projection surface. You thus obtain a real value.

A video projector, even if it is bright, cannot compete with a television. The contribution of light (natural or artificial) will have the effect of drastically reducing the contrast of your image. With a brightness lower than 1000 ANSI lumens, the projector must be used in total darkness.

Brightness is the most important differentiator in the Horizon 20 range, and probably the most important factor in choosing a lens. So I'm going to use some figures and a few explanations to give you an idea. The XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro has a theoretical brightness of 4200 lumens. That's huge, but the reality is that it's a technical measurement and you'll never be able to use those 4500 lumens.

Brightness will determine the size of screen you can aim for and therefore the projection distance, but brightness is paradoxically also the absence of brightness, because too much brightness makes the black look grayish and gives the image a washed-out appearance.

Distance / image size

The projector has several configurations with different brightness levels. The brightest mode is the "High Power" mode, which will take you beyond 4000 lumens, but will generate a greenish image and increase ventilation noise to an unbearable level. This mode is therefore unusable.

In the other configurations, I measured between 2200 and 2800 lumens depending on the chosen configuration, using the laser at the highest level (Level 10). What can you achieve with such luminosity? I'll illustrate this with two graphs, one to show the lower range and one to show the upper range. These two scenarios take into account a screen with a gain of 0.94 in the standard configuration with the laser at 10. They will give you an indication of the maximum recommended projection distance. I didn't use the boost mode (above laser level 10) because it induces visible color deviation.

Let's start with the 2200 lumens:

On this graph (and the following one) you have 4 lines:
- blue line: luminance value
- red line: minimum value for a dark room in SDR
- yellow line: minimum value for a dark room in HDR
- green line: minimum value for a lighted room

The horizontal axis shows the projection distance. If you're using this projector in total darkness, you can place it up to 4 meters from the screen to obtain an image 333 cm wide, with sufficient brightness for SDR and HDR. If you're in a brightly lit room, you'll need to position the projector 260 cm from the screen. I should point out that this value is highly variable, depending on the brightness of the room and the type of screen used. Whatever happens, a bright room will cause you to lose contrast, but the image will still be visible.

Next, 2800 lumens:


With 2800 lumens, you obviously have more leeway, as you'll be able to position the projector at 420 cm to obtain an image 350 cm wide. For a well-lit room, you can position the projector up to 290cm.

With these two extremes, you have a first possible arbitration for your room. If you need to position this projector more than 4 meters away, you'll need to go for the Max version.

Variants:
1. If you plan to use a screen with a gain of 0.7, for example, like the one I used for this test, you'll need to shorten the projection distance to 370 cm for the 2800 lumens and 340 cm for the 2200 lumens.
2. If you use the Film mode, which has the best color fidelity, you'll be left with around 2500 lumens, so the maximum distance will be 360 cm for a 300 cm wide screen.

This projector is equipped with 10 laser levels and a boost, which can be useful if you're in total darkness and your projection distance is less than 4 meters. What's in it for you? This is a very bright projector, and too much brightness could make it difficult to watch a film properly.

The lowest level (1) is equivalent to around 60% of maximum brightness, so lowering the brightness will shorten your ideal projection distance.

Here's the progression of brightness levels

Laser level	Luminance (cd/m²)	Gain (%)	N measurements
1	94.81	-	1
2	112.45	+18.6%	1
3	127.72	+13.6%	1
4	144.90	+13.5%	1
5	157.75	+8.9%	1
6	170.56	+8.1%	1
7	184.60	+8.2%	1
8	197.86	+7.2%	1
9	212.64	+7.5%	1
10	229.50	+7.9%	1
boost	282.42	+23.1%	1

If I take the "Film" mode as a reference, you'll get something like this:
Level 1: +/-1500 lumens, maximum distance: 280 cm
Level 5: +/- 1750 lumens, maximum distance: 300 cm

As you can see, a projector is more complex to position than a television. Brightness is a decisive factor in the choice of projector. As I can't show you every possible combination, I'll give you a few pointers. If you can't figure it out, don't hesitate to ask in the comments.

Before closing the chapter, I'm going to answer a very common question: can this projector be used in daylight?

The answer is no, unless you're willing to make concessions. Projectors are not designed for use in bright environments. A very bright projector like this one will be able to display a perfectly visible image, but the ambient brightness will increase the brightness of the black in your images. Contrast will therefore be degraded. To reduce this problem, you need to use an ALR screen, but even with this type of screen, you won't get the same result as with a good television.

Day/night example:

On the left, the image in the dark and on the right, the image with daytime brightness. The image on the right is "watchable", but the contrast level is much lower. This is probably less of a problem for watching a soccer match, but for dark films, your eyes will suffer.

Black level

So far, I've concentrated on brightness, but the other end of the spectrum is just as important. As you can see from the previous Batman photo, too high a black level will result in a washed-out image. The black level will depend on the laser level used and the type of screen.

With a 10 laser and a white screen, you'll get a black level of around 0.2 cd/m². This may sound low, and it is, but it's not a very deep black. With an ALR screen and under the same conditions, the black drops to 0.09. If I lower the laser level, I can get down to around 0.03 cd/m², and then it starts to get very interesting.

So you'll have to juggle with these different parameters. If you're on the safe side in terms of projection distance and have room to spare, I'd advise you to lower the brightness level. It's better for visual comfort, but also for the depth of blacks.

Sharpness

The XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro uses the same optical block as the Horizon 20 Max, so you can expect the same visual characteristics. Here's an image showing text on a white and black background, and the usual image with the fine lines separated by one pixel. As far as the text is concerned, the clipping is absolutely impeccable and I can't see any chromatic aberration.



The lines on my test image are perfectly visible too, the few visual flaws are mostly linked to my camera where moiré could appear but this is not the case with the image displayed by the projector.



The promise of high-level sharpness is therefore kept and it doesn't come at the expense of noise in the image. In the past, XGIMI has often chosen to force sharpness artificially, with the consequence of generating image noise, but this is not the case with this projector.

Contrast

More explanations on contrast

Contrast (on/off) is used to measure the difference between white and black. This measurement gives an indication of the ability of a projector to produce a good rendering in dark scenes.

A contrast lower than 500:1 should be considered as a very low contrast and the consequence will be especially visible in dark scenes where you will lose details. This is less of a problem for sports, bright films or even cartoons.

A low contrast ratio does not mean that a projector is not usable, you just have to be aware that for films like Aliens, dark scenes will no longer allow you to distinguish details.

The Horizon 20 series has two contrast levels: native contrast and dynamic contrast. The native contrast is between 1100 and 1400:1, depending on the configuration chosen. I doubt the average consumer will be able to tell the difference between an image at 1100:1 and 1400:1, which is pretty much the same thing. Dynamic contrast, on the other hand, can push the projector to much higher values, sometimes resulting in a contrast of over 10,000:1.

The best configuration for colors (film/d65) has a contrast ratio of 1354:1 without calibration and after calibration I get 1241:1. Some other configurations have a slightly higher contrast, but you won't see any difference in contrast. On the other hand, colorimetry is much poorer, so I recommend only using the film/d65 mode.

Dynamic contrast is an algorithmic artifice, meaning that it's not the natural optical behavior of the projector but something manipulated by the software. Unfortunately, this manipulation has a very negative effect on image quality, covering the image with a mauve/blue haze. Dynamic contrast is therefore not exploited. Unfortunately, this is often the case with this type of technique.

Here's an example with only native contrast, so the result is quite correct. It's still not at the level of an ultra-short-throw projector like the Formovie Edge, but it's a good visual experience



Motion compensation

More on Motion Compensation (MEMC)

Many projectors use a frequency of 60 Hz, which means that they broadcast 60 frames per second. Many films were designed to broadcast 24 frames per second. This means that for each second, the film does not have enough frames to fill the 60 frames broadcast by the projector.

This most often results in a jerkiness in the image. Some projectors are able to attenuate this jerkiness with a motion compensation system (also called MEMC). If you abuse this compensation, you will get what is called the 'soap opera' effect which makes the image a little artificial like the TV series of the 80s.

Projectors like this XGIMI and many other models from other manufacturers have a display frequency of 60 Hz, which translates into 60 frames per second. Unfortunately, films are not shot at 60 frames per second, which means that the display can misfire in fast-motion situations. To alleviate this problem, XGIMI and many other manufacturers offer a compensation system called MEMC.

In the video part of this test, you'll be able to observe a white square moving horizontally and tearing as soon as compensation is deactivated. From the "medium" setting onwards, the tearing of the square is barely visible. This compensation works well, but if you overdo it, it will make the image look artificial. This is not a problem specific to XGIMI, but one faced by almost the entire projector industry.

Image size and projection distance

More explanations on the projection distance

The projection distance determines the size of the image and the size of the image is determined by the projector's throw ratio. If a projector has a throw ratio of 1.2, it will have an image width of 83 cm with possibly a gray border.

The distance also plays a role in the brightness because the brightness decreases with the square of the distance. A projector placed at 4 meters will therefore lose 4 times more brightness than a projector placed at 2 meters.

Keystone image correction does not modify the projection cone, it resizes the image inside the projection cone. This means that in the event of a significant correction, you will see a large gray border appear around your image.

The XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro (and the other 2 in this range) is equipped with an optical zoom that allows the projection ratio to be varied from 1.2 to 1.5. What this means in practical terms is that at 1.2 zoom, you get an image of around 85 cm per meter of distance from the screen. With the 1.5 zoom, you get an image of 66 cm per meter of distance.

There is a possibility of using a digital zoom to reduce the image size, but I advise against it, as it will generate a grey border around your screen and will cause a degradation in quality.

You can also use a lens-shift on the 120° vertical axis and another on the 45° horizontal axis. This mechanical shift offers great flexibility to this projector, allowing the image to be reoriented without loss of quality. Just be aware that changing the angle will have a slight impact on brightness.

Screen choice

I tested this projector on 3 different screens:

- a 130-inch Vevor white screen. This is an inexpensive screen with a slight green drift and a small loss of brightness

- a 100-inch NothingProjector ALR long-throw screen with a gain of 0.7

- a 120-inch NothingProjector ALR short-throw screen with a gain of 0.6

Budget will undoubtedly play a role in your choice, and if you're on a tight budget, a screen like the Vevor will do just fine, provided you use the projector in total darkness

Using an ALR screen will allow you to do two things:

- better control ambient light if you're not in a totally dark room

- reduce brightness and bring black closer to true black to give better depth to the image

Using an ALR screen also has consequences:

- colorimetry is affected, the proportion of blue needs to be reduced

- the viewing angle is narrower

- texture is often visible

- speckle can appear

The two ALR screens I've tested have no speckle problems, and colorimetric drift is very manageable with the settings. I can't guarantee that this is the case with all screens of this type

To sum up, what I recommend:

- in the dark: white screen or ALR screen depending on budget

- in a brightly lit room: avoid the white screen, an ALR is mandatory to reduce the loss of contrast

If you use the projector with the laser level at maximum, the black may be too gray, an ALR screen can bring greater depth to the image here. That's why I'd recommend using an ALR screen in all scenarios, if you can afford it

Audio quality

More explanations on audio quality

I use several types of music tracks to illustrate the sound quality of the projector but the rendering will always be limited by the recording device. Since I always use the same device, you will be able to compare the difference on the same basis.

I regularly use well-known songs protected by copyright to illustrate the sound quality of a video projector. It therefore sometimes happens that YouTube decides to block my videos for these reasons. In this case, you can listen to the soundtracks directly on YouTube and hope that YouTube has not completely blocked my channel.

The XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro is equipped with two Harman-Kardon speakers (2x15 watts). These are the same speakers as on the other models, and also the same as on the previous generation (XGIMI Horizon S Pro and XGIMI Horizon S Max). The sound quality is very good, with a good volume that will allow you to be autonomous in terms of sound. Obviously, if you have a large room and a dedicated installation, the result will be even better, but this all-in-one concept from XGIMI works really well.

I'm going to add a demo audio track to the video test so that you can get a feel for the sound quality in standard mode without changing the settings.

Video games

More explanations video games

To be able to play in good conditions with a projector, the latency must be low. Latency is the reaction time between pressing a button on your controller and the reaction on the screen, this latency is expressed in milliseconds and is also called 'input lag'.

I measure this latency with a specialized device. To be able to play fast-paced FPS-type games online, you need to obtain a latency of less than 30 ms. For games where the reaction time is less important, a latency of less than 100ms should be suitable for most situations.

I generally test ShadowRunner from Geforce Now on my Nvidia Shield except when this is not possible. I'm not used to playing with a controller, so I'm not very good at it, but the point is to show the projector's ability, not mine.

Not yet available / tested

Encoutered bugs

Not yet available / tested

ALR/CLR Projection screen

Are you looking for a good ALR/CLR screen for your projector? I may have what you need:
ALR/CLR NothingProjector Screen

Test / Review conclusion

As I had already tested the XGIMI Horizon 20 Max and the Horizon 20 (normal version), the result of this test of the Horizon 20 Pro came as no surprise. The Horizon 20 Pro could be a "big" Horizon 20 or a "small" Horizon 20 Max, and I'd lean more towards the latter. The 20 Pro is similar in every way to the 20 Max except for its brightness and color settings. Choosing the 20 Max will only be justified if you need more brightness. The normal version might also be justified if you're using the projector in total darkness and with an image size of less than 120 inches

The XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro ticks all the boxes like the other models. It produces a high-quality image with excellent brightness levels, excellent colorimetry, good native contrast, excellent sound quality, optimized for gaming (VRR and very low input lag), flexible placement with lens shift and, last but not least, excellent image sharpness. Its triple-laser light source (in reality, it's a double laser to avoid speckle) will enable you to reach new heights in color coverage, and the HDR luminosity will enable you to retain all the details in very bright images.

This projector doesn't have any major faults, but it does have a few weaknesses to be aware of. The most obvious is the dynamic contrast, as this feature is unusable for the time being and will limit the native contrast to between 1100 and 1300:1. This native contrast isn't bad, but there is competition on the market.

I find the black level a little too high. It's not a major problem because films and series rarely display an all-black screen, but being used to testing projectors, I can see it straight away. You can lower the black level by reducing the laser power or by using an ALR screen

I don't perceive the rainbow effect (RBE or AEC) but I see that some users who are sensitive to it seem to complain about it on the forums. The rainbow effect is certainly no worse on this projector than on other models, you just have to be aware that it exists

The whole Horizon 20 range is to be considered a success, it's the brightness that will play the arbiter in your choice. I've given you a few pointers for choice in this article, but I'll also be producing a detailed comparison in the coming weeks

Which model should you choose? I'll go into more detail in my comparison, but I'll already give you a few hints:

- white screen + darkness + screen size up to 120 inches: the basic model is sufficient

- ALR screen + darkness or slightly lit room + screen size up to 120 inches: the Pro model is a good candidate

- ALR screen + bright room + large screen size: Horizon 20 Max

These are hints that I'll be digging into in my comparison to add nuances

Strengths

Brightness

Placement flexibility

Native contrast

Image sharpness

Sound quality

SDR and HDR colorimetry

Input lag

Google TV

Higher frequency for gaming

Numerous settings for image enhancement

Power consumption

No speckle found

Weaknesses

Dynamic contrast

Black level

AEC / RBE effect

Weight / Dimensions

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