Bikes

Lankeleisi X3000 Max: test / review

Published on: 18-01-2024 / Modified: 11-06-2024

Chinese industry constantly proves its ability to market quality products at affordable costs, this is notably what has enabled the democratization of smartphones but it is a phenomenon which also extends to electric bicycles. The last bike I tested was the Urtopia Carbon One, a full carbon bike with electric assistance up to 25 km/h. It was a bike that I would describe as a civilized bike, this time I'm going to test a bike of a completely different type... or I should rather say an animal of a completely different type because this bike strays from the civilized side of the Urtopia Carbon One.

It will probably take me some time to fully test this bike because the capricious weather at the end of the year is not favorable for this type of test, but if you visit this page before the end of the test, do not hesitate to ask your questions in the comments section at the bottom of the page. I will try to answer it as quickly as possible. Delivery of my bike is scheduled for the last week of November.

Special offer

The Lankeleisi X3000 Max is available on the official website for a base price of €2099 but I have a €100 promo code so you can buy it at the best price.

To benefit from the offer, use the code lankeleisilaurent in your basket or click on the following link to activate it automatically: (you will be redirected to the home page but the code will automatically appear in your basket)
Activate promo code

Then to buy the bike, use the following link:
Lankeleisi X3000 Max / official website

Here's what you should see in your basket with the €100 reduction

The €100 reduction can be combined with current promotions (e.g. Black Friday)

Video review

X3000 Max vs X3000plus?

The X3000 range is available in several models, so do not confuse them because the characteristics are not the same, the price is also very different.

Features	X3000 Plus	X3000 Max
Number of speeds	7	7
Theoretical range (km)	55-130	55-130
Battery capacity (A)	17.5	20
Wheel size (inches)	20 / 4	20 / 4
Motor	1x1000W	2x1000W
Torque (Nm)	70-75	90
Brakes	Discs/Hydraulics	Discs/Hydraulics
Suspension	Front/rear	Front/rear
Weight (kg)	28	37
Speed (km/h)	25	51

These bikes can be unrestrained to reach higher speeds.

The main difference between these two models is mainly the presence of a second motor on the X3000 Max. This second engine offers extraordinary power and responsiveness, notably with a torque of 90 Nm which provides enormous sensations in terms of acceleration. The battery has also been adapted and its capacity has been increased to 20A instead of 17.5 on the X3000 Plus version.

Finally, the difference is felt on the scales as well, the weight gain is considerable and the X3000 Max is clearly not a bike that you are going to take everywhere with you, it weighs 37 kg!

Update 11/26/23:
I received the bike 3 days early, shipping from the official website is from Poland, fast delivery and no taxes to pay.

Update 03/12/23:
I was finally able to go out to test the bike, I hadn't seen the sun for a few weeks but it was -4°C. I was also right to go out that day because the next day the snow was falling.

Features/Specifications

Here are the technical characteristics of the Lankeleisi X3000 Max:

Wheels (inches)	20
Colors	Black/gray,Black/orange
Frame	Alu 6061
Handlebar	Alu 6061, 31.8mm x 700 mm
Fork	Alu, lockable
Derailleur	Shimano M310
Shift changer	Shimano TX50
Crankset	52
Cassette	14-28
Chain	KMC 7s
Brakes	DYISLAND, hydraulic disc brake
Rims	Alu alloy
Tires	20*4.0 CHAOYANG
Weight (kg)	37
Max load (kg)	180
Max height (cm)	170-190
Front headlight	4.5" LED
Battery	48V 20AH Samsung Lithium
Charging time (h)	6 to 7
Controller	48v36a dual drive vector controller
Motor	48v 1000W x2
Accelerator	192DX
IP Grade	54
Power assist	12 point Holzer

Unpacking/Assembly

The Lankeleisi The bike alone weighs almost 40kg, with the box and accessories it probably takes 45kg.

The box contains the bike with the rear wheel already assembled, you then need to mount the handlebars, the front headlight, the front wheel, the pedals and the saddle. A small manual is available in the box with the accessories, it outlines the different stages of assembly. The photos in the manual are quite small, I added a link to the manual at the bottom of the page, this will allow you to enlarge the photos if you need to

The assembly is not very difficult, you just have to understand what to do and the manual is not always very clear on this subject. I will try to describe the steps in a little more detail to help you assemble your bike. The first advice I can give you is to free up as much space as possible because the bike is large and once unpacked, you will also have to take space for the accessories. Remember to remove all protection before starting assembly, this will make your life easier later.

Step 1: the handlebars
The handlebars are attached to the bike by wiring but it must be attached to the fork. You must first unscrew the support which is held by 4 screws to be unscrewed with one of the allen keys delivered with the bike.

Then place the handlebars in the curvature provided for this purpose, a viewfinder symbol will allow you to correctly center the handlebars. This symbol will not, however, indicate the right position for you, it serves as a guide. Given my height (1m94), I had to tilt the handlebars much further forward. Once you have found the right position, tighten the screws fully and do not underestimate the tightening otherwise your handlebars may move while you ride.

Step 2: the headlight

The front light attaches to the fork. It is equipped with two tubes that must be opened by unscrewing 2 screws per tube on each side. You can then place the open tube on the fork (on each side) then close the tube and screw it. You also need to connect the power for the headlight, you need to match the arrows on each connector.

Step 3: the front wheel

To place the front wheel you must turn the bike over, remember to use the protections delivered in the box so that it does not rest on a surface which could damage it. Due to the weight of the bike, you may need to ask for help to return it. Placing the wheel is a matter of common sense; you must match the brake disc with the slot provided to accommodate it on the fork. At the wheel axle there is a small circle of metal (towards the inside), there is a small notch coming out of the metal ring, it must face upwards when the bike is upside down. You must then loosen the axle so that the wheel can fit correctly into its axle. Then tighten the bolts securely with an allen wrench.

After inserting the wheel you need to connect the motor, both cables are also marked with an arrow, you need to match them. You must then unscrew the cable tie on the fork to insert the power cable and then tighten everything so that the cable no longer moves.

Step 4: the pedals

The pedals are assembled quite easily with the key supplied with the bike. You need to match the R pedal with the right and the L pedal with the left.

Step 5: the saddle

The saddle is very easy to assemble, simply open the lock at the tube, insert the saddle and then tighten the lock. There is a "min" indicator to indicate how far you should insert the saddle. Unfortunately, I cannot respect this indication because with my height I am obliged to exceed the minimum limit by a few centimeters otherwise my legs will be completely bent. I will come back to this point later in the review because for tall people this could pose a problem.

There you go, the bike is ready to use! I had filmed part of the montage but after 30 minutes my camera's memory card was full and I didn't realize it. So I'm missing part of the edit but when I do the final edit, I'm going to try to combine the video part with photos to have a complete edit in video format.

I lost time editing on the following elements:
- connecting the front headlight, I couldn't find the tip to connect it to
- the insertion of the front wheel because I had not seen the notch at the axle level
If I hadn't had to search a bit, I probably could have put this bike together in 20 to 30 minutes (unboxing included).

Step 2: the headlight

The pedals are assembled quite easily with the key supplied with the bike. You need to match the R pedal with the right and the L pedal with the left.

Step 5: the saddle

Overview

This Lankeleisi X3000 Max is my first fat bike. I have other bikes but they are all "normal" bikes with thin wheels. The presence of such wheels gives it a very massive effect but I find that the construction with the oblique rod frame gives it a certain style. The bike I ride the most is my racing bike and the riding position on Lankeleisi is very clearly different, I sit in a more comfortable position for the back and I directly felt the effect of the suspensions there where my racing bike makes me take all the bumps.

The handlebars can be adjusted to a fairly high position, this is also a new thing for me, I am used to riding in a lower position but here the pressure on my arms is significantly less.

Presentation

Frame

The frame is not very conventional as the front and rear of the bike are only held together by a single, almost horizontal axle which also accommodates the battery. This position is quite interesting because it allows the weight of the battery to be distributed and allows all the wiring to pass quite discreetly along this axis.

The welds are very visible but for a bike of this type it's not surprising, it's even quite reassuring because I imagine that some users will subject it to shock treatment for fun.

Handlebar

The shape and position of the handlebars are new to me, I've never had a bike with such a high position and it's definitely more comfortable than my racing bike. I was surprised to find that the brake position is reversed compared to other bikes I have tested, the left brake controls the rear brake. I'll have to get used to it because I tend to brake mainly with the rear wheel but here it's a little too risky.

On the left part of the handlebars, there is a control panel that allows you to turn on the bike, change the assistance level or turn on the headlights. In the center we find the screen on which we find the speed, battery level, assistance level, active speed and distance traveled. The screen tilts to reduce reflections. This screen is a Dukawey screen, I imagine that some of the components are shared across several bike brands.

On the right part of the handlebars, there is the lever which allows you to change speeds at the derailleur as well as a button allowing access to speeds 5 to 7 which are not accessible with the lever. The right handle is also cut into two parts, one with the accelerator and the other with the normal handle. Here too you have to get used to the presence of the accelerator and avoid activating it by accident.

The handlebars are quite wide, which offers greater positional latitude, but on the other hand, it may not fit through all the doors if you hold it by hand. It measures 72 cm wide and this width is obviously not adaptable.

Engine

The Lankeleisi torque and a certain ease in getting you to the right speed.

What is the advantage of a second engine?
Better traction: A bike with two motors can provide better traction, especially in difficult conditions such as on rough terrain, slippery surfaces or steep climbs. Each wheel can be powered independently, improving stability and traction.

Power Distribution: Power distribution between the two wheels can contribute to smoother acceleration and better responsiveness, especially when cornering.

All-terrain capability: Off-road bikes, especially electric mountain bikes, can benefit from dual motors for better performance on varied trails.

Adding a motor also has some disadvantages:
Additional Weight: Adding a second motor and associated components may increase the overall weight of the bike, which may affect handling and battery life.

Increased complexity: A system with two motors may be more complex from a design and maintenance perspective. There are more components to manage and maintain.

Potential cost: Bikes with two motors may be more expensive due to the additional technology and components required.

This double motor can therefore help you climb steep slopes more easily but it will give a feeling of instant start.

Transmission

The Lankeleisi X3000 Max has a chain drive (KMC 7s) and uses a 52 tooth crankset in combination with a 14-28 cassette. The combination of a 52x14 with 20-inch wheels generates a development of 5.9 meters per pedal revolution and at a cadence of 60 revolutions per minute this results in a speed of around 21 km/h. With a cadence of 90 revolutions per minute, we exceed 30 km/h. The development is therefore not huge but it should not represent a big problem since this bike offers assistance without pedaling. Those like me who like to press the pedals will quickly stir up air.

Wheels

This bike is equipped with 20-inch wheels with a width of 4 inches. With this type of tire, you will be able to venture out on the trails without losing too much grip, but I will come back to this point later in the article because you must be aware of the limits of this type of configuration.

Brakes

The brakes are reversed from the usual position, the rear brake can be operated from the left handlebar grip. As I'm used to mainly using the rear brake on my other bikes, I had to adapt a little but nothing dramatic. On the other hand, I noticed a big difference in braking power between the front and the rear, the rear brake is significantly weaker than the front brake. I don't know if it's specific to my bike or if it's the same for all X3000 Max but I advise you in any case to brake with both brakes at the same time because given the weight of the bike, the The use of both brakes is more than recommended. With both brakes, the bike brakes very hard and stops very quickly despite the speed and weight.

Saddle

The saddle is huge, I'm not used to this kind of saddle. I almost feel like I'm sitting in an armchair, this saddle is so comfortable compared to the thin, hard saddle on my racing bike. Despite its brutal appearance, this bike is very comfortable and absorbs road irregularities quite well.

I measured the distances to the pedals to help you determine if this bike is right for you. The ground/pedal distance is 15cm, so it's a little higher than a traditional bike. The distance between the lower pedal and the start of the seat tube is 54cm, this is a fairly short distance which will force most users to mount their saddle. On my road bike I have a distance of 68 cm. Finally, for my size, I had to raise the saddle by about twenty centimeters.

On my road bike I have a gap of 85cm between the bottom pedal and the bottom of the saddle, on the Lankeleisi I have 74cm when putting the saddle beyond its maximum level. The distance from the ground is 91cm with the road bike following the axis of the bike and 89cm with the Lankeleisi. The height from the ground is therefore approximately the same but on the other hand the distance between saddle and pedal is shorter and my legs are therefore bent but this should not be the case for you if you are 1m80 or less. It is also less problematic than on a road bike because the purpose of this type of bike is not the same either. With a road bike, you are looking for performance and you therefore need a good leg position, this is not the case with this bike.

Battery

The battery is accessed by opening the bike frame and unlocking the mechanism underneath the bike. It's not super practical because the bike is quite heavy and handling it to remove the battery is not super practical. There is a tip to charge the battery while it is in the bike, if you have the option to charge it that way it is probably much easier. For those like me who do not have the possibility of charging the bike where it is stored, you will therefore have to remove the battery and charge it at home.

Like all batteries of this type, the charge takes quite a long time, it takes almost 7 hours to fully charge it. I measured 165 Watts of consumption at the socket to charge the battery, this is not trivial.

Screen/Electronics

Accessories

This kind of bike is not aimed at a super wide audience, so I was surprised to see that the bike was equipped with a luggage rack. I can't imagine going shopping or transporting anything with this bike, it's a bit like hooking a trailer hook to a Ford Mustang type car. It works without any problems but it's an unusual combination.

The box is well stocked with accessories including several allen keys of different sizes (only one is useful for the bike), a cross screwdriver, a pump, a lock and a power adapter for the United States.

Road test

First exit: approximately 20 km.
I tested the bike on country roads and paths, it was very cold (-4°C) and despite my gloves, I thought I was going to leave my fingers there. The first thing that struck me was the weight (and bulk) of the bike, it is truly massive. Just to take it out of the garage and put it in the right direction, you either have to lift it to turn it over or do it in several stages because its turning radius is large. If you have to turn around on a road, you will need to make sure you have enough room to do so. The bike has an assist function so you don't have to bear its weight when you walk next to the bike, this feature allows the bike to roll up to 6km/h next to you, I think for some people this will really be necessary.

Once on the road, the weight is no longer really felt thanks to the power of the engine. When running on a single motor, the bike goes up to 25km/h quite quickly without making you take off. The suspensions absorb most of the road irregularities and the bike is very easy to control.

Shifting gear

I tested the shift several times in both directions before going further and was positively surprised by the smoothness of the shift. The chain shifts from one speed to another without delay in a fairly natural way without letting you hear a crack like on most bikes. The control lever on the right of the handlebar allows you to change gears so quickly that you will undoubtedly often change several gears at once, here we forget a little about precision, it is comfort and ease that take precedence. The small lever which allows you to go from 7th to 1st must be pushed further and further to reach first and if you don't have long fingers, you will probably have to let go of the handle to get there.

The gear change is done on the right of the handlebars just after the throttle trigger and this brings me to the next point.

Accelerator

This is the first time I've tested a bike with a throttle and if this is the case for you too, you need to take some precautions. I have large hands and by placing my hands on the right part of the handlebars, part of my hand covers the accelerator. So I inevitably activated the accelerator several times without meaning to and as it reacts quite quickly this can sometimes come as a surprise.

I was actually surprised when stopping, I was holding the handlebars on the right to fix a camera and by accident I activated the accelerator, the bike took off like a horse rearing and I had to surprise cyclists passing by. You must therefore be a little careful, the accelerator works very well but you must not forget it otherwise there will be some surprises.

Engine

I first did my first kilometers on an engine and with the speed limit at 25 km/h. The motor offers road comfort that allows anyone to move without the slightest effort since this bike offers assistance without pedaling. The motor makes a small humming noise like most motors of this type.

The Lankeleisi X3000 Max has several assistance modes to make your life easier, but you need to understand what that involves. Without assistance, the bike is really too heavy to maneuver. I have good legs but the weight of the bike combined with a limited height (less than 6 meters) will not allow you to ride very comfortably. The assistance is however quite important from the first level, going from no assistance to the first level really frees the bike. The other levels make it a little easier but the progression is not linear, I especially have the impression that the gap between each level is decreasing. With assistance, it is perfectly possible to stay in 52x14 almost all the time and this is actually the combination that suits me best because even if pedaling is not necessary, I still enjoy pedaling. and in 52x14 I can still make my contribution to the speed of the bike.

Support is fast but there is very noticeable latency. If you press the pedals, you will feel resistance for a fraction of a second and then the assistance will take over. On my Utopia Carbon One, I don't have this latency, the assistance is present as soon as I press. This small delay causes a sort of jerk in the rhythm. I have noticed the opposite effect when I stop pedaling, I feel that the assistance continues to function for a fraction of a second while I pedal more and then it suddenly stops. This may be the case on all fat bikes, I don't know, it's the first fat bike I've tested.

I then tested the motor uphill to see if it was capable of carrying my weight (100 kg) and the weight of the bike (37 kg). I don't have any big climbs at home but I have a few on my usual routes, these are climbs that I know well and so I know how quickly I can tackle them and the type of effort I need. have to deliver to get there. I started with a climb where with my racing bike I start around 35km/h and I arrive at the top at around 15 km/h with a heart rate that exceeds 140. With the Lankeleisi X3000 Max, I attack the climb at 25 km/h and I arrive at the top at 24 km/h without the slightest out of breath. With only one motor activated, I find that the bike still experiences some difficulties with a weight like mine on a steeper climb but fortunately there is a second motor.

To engage the second motor, simply press the + button on the control pad on the left on the handlebars for 2 seconds. The screen then displays DUAL instead of SINGLE but even without looking at the screen, you will quickly feel that something is happening. The second motor literally frees the bike to propel it to maximum speed with much more ease. If you are stationary and use the accelerator with both motors in action, you will spin both wheels! On the road, the bike will only slip briefly, but if you start on soft ground, you will probably create a furrow.

The Lankeleisi With the second engine, you have to be even more careful with the accelerator when you are stationary. When both motors are running at the same time, the bike is noticeably noisier.

This combination of the two engines is clearly a strength of this product, it provides great sensations and offers really pleasant driving comfort.

Suspension

The front suspension can be adapted according to your needs ranging from a soft suspension to something quite firm. The basic configuration is set to a fairly firm suspension. I left for my first test without changing the basic configuration and I must say that I enjoyed it well. I have a section of paved road near my house, it's a road that I avoid with my racing bike because I could damage my wheels and lose dentures. I told myself that with this kind of bike I could attempt a pass but it was far from being a pleasant experience, I was very shaken from all sides and since I was traveling at 25 km/h, I I took the shocks even more than with my normal bike because I rode faster with the Lankeleisi.

I'm going to do this section of paved road again with another suspension setting and since I filmed my first pass with a camera on the front fork, I'll be able to compare the two quite easily.

Crankset/Cassette

The Lankeleisi X3000 Max is equipped with a 52T crankset and a 14-28T cassette which results in a travel of less than 6 meters with each pedal revolution. Compared to my racing bike, it's about half so with each pedal stroke, the racing bike travels 5 meters more. It may seem enormous and it is indeed the case but it is absolutely not a problem for this type of bike. It's not a bike you buy for sport and performance, it's quite the opposite. The engine assistance completely compensates for this development deficit.

At the rear we find a Shimano Altus derailleur which plays its role very well with flexibility and speed. When I put the bike together I found that the chain seemed very loose and I told myself that this would probably have an impact on the speed and smoothness of the gear change but that is frankly not the case. case. The gears move from one level to another in a very natural way, it's almost surprising for a bike of this type.

Saddle

The saddle is very large and comfortable, it will suit a very wide audience (male and female). We are very far here from the type of saddle that I am used to using. The saddle can be adjusted in height very easily and without tools, simply release the tube with the clamp at the top of the frame. As you can see in the photo, there is a minimum level for placing the saddle and I am well beyond this level. For what? I'm 1m94 tall and to have my leg straight when stationary, I had to raise the saddle to this level. With this level I can stand upright when stationary but it is still a little insufficient for the pedaling position because my legs are a little too bent for my liking. I will measure the gap between the pedal and the saddle next time I ride to compare this gap with my other bikes.

The bike is designed for heights up to 1m90 but those like me who are taller will still be able to use it while being aware of a few limitations. I mainly use a racing bike and with this bike I have one leg almost stretched over the pedals to push as much as possible but that is not possible on this bike. This is not a problem in itself because it is not the purpose of the bike, I found it unusual but not disabling.

Frame

The frame is quite well designed because even though I'm not used to riding this kind of bike, the shape and weight of the frame have never been a problem for me. I even find that the central placement of the battery is a good thing to obtain a good balance in terms of the weight of the bike.

On the other hand, I again have a remark for the large sizes. I wear a size 47 and if I pedal using my tiptoes, the back of my foot hits the foot of the bike on the left and the frame of the bike on the right. Again here it's a question of habit because I ride with tiptoes on my racing bike but here I have to press with the middle of my foot on the pedals otherwise I will hit my foot somewhere on the 'back.

Screen

I played with the screen a bit before leaving and found it to be perfectly readable. However, once on the road, I changed my mind. With the chosen position of the handlebars so that it is adapted to my height, the position of the screen makes it unreadable under the sun. I can barely see the speed because they are big numbers, I can't read the other indications. I didn't see any indication to change the screen brightness in the manual, I will keep looking because the screen could use a little more brightness.

Brakes

The Lankeleisi X3000 Max is equipped with hydraulic disc brakes at the front and rear, these are DYISLAND brand brakes. The rear brake is controlled by the left handle, it's the opposite of what I have on my other bikes, so you have to know this and be careful otherwise you risk overusing the front brake with the consequences that this can have. generate. I'm used to mostly using the rear brake on my other bikes and was a little surprised to find that the Lankeleisi's rear brake is a bit weak. If I brake only with the rear brake, the braking distance is too long.

The front brake, on the other hand, is more powerful and direct, the combination of the two brakes allows rapid and effective braking. Braking is an essential part of this bike because with the speed you can reach and the weight of the bike (in addition to your own), you need to be able to count on good brakes. I therefore encourage you to try the brakes before embarking on the adventure to be sure you have good control of them once on the road. If you have to react quickly to a situation, you have to be able to make the right decision and in my case I have the reflex to press the brake to the right but this is not a good idea. This may also be the case on other fat bikes but as I already mentioned, this is my first fat bike, so I have no point of comparison for this type of bike.

Trail test

It's been weeks since the rain stopped and obviously the ground is waterlogged, so these are not ideal conditions for going for a walk in the woods but it allowed me to better understand what of which this bike was capable. I'm not a specialist in forest trails, I never ride on trails because until now, I didn't have a bike capable of doing that. Riding on a muddy trail with the Lankeleisi X3000 Max was therefore a discovery for me.

I ventured into a wood near my home where paths have been laid out so that I can ride my bike, these paths are quite varied with quite significant climbs and descents. I set off on the first path with a good dose of caution because I had never done that and after 100 meters I already had to stop because someone was walking with their dogs, I had to quickly put to the side. The braking is really powerful even in bad conditions but I felt that the wet ground would quickly become a problem.

I then started my first descent where the trail was in pretty good condition so I didn't encounter any problems. A little further on I encountered a first unexpected obstacle, the path was completely flooded. I have been hiking these trails for years and have never seen so much water on the trails. Not really knowing how to go about it since I'm not used to driving in such conditions, I try a cautious approach by driving calmly through the flooded area. This was obviously not the right approach because I quickly found myself at a standstill with my feet in the water. I looked smart with my beautiful bike planted in the middle of the water. The power of the engine didn't help me because the torque was so much that the wheels were spinning in the mud.

Once out of the mud I continued my journey to find myself facing another flooded area but this time the presence of water was less significant. I decided to pass more quickly through the flooded area so as not to find myself stuck in the middle of the water. This time it worked but I had a few scares during the crossing because even if the bike was not stopped it still danced throughout the crossing. Again I'm not used to this and I imagine that someone who is used to this kind of condition must be able to get out of it more easily than me. Despite my hesitation and reluctance I was able to tackle several trails of this type with the same result.

Before returning home I told myself that I had to tackle a fairly steep climb to see if the bike would be able to take me to the top without problems. The climb in question is a climb of more than 25%, it is so steep that the climb on foot also represents an effort. I also didn't have the possibility of gaining momentum so I started at a standstill and directly attacked the climb. Did the bike make it all the way to the top? Unfortunately no but he almost made it and the reason he didn't make it was again because of the humidity of the pitch. The last few meters were quite muddy and the bike started to spin. So I had to put my foot on the ground several times to complete the climb but I think that on dry ground, he could have covered the entire distance without forcing me to put a foot on the ground.

If you like riding on trails, this bike will perfectly meet your expectations provided that the ground is not too waterlogged because with such torque, the bike will tend to slip. I was positively surprised by how easy it was to ride trails with this bike and I'm sure that with a little more experience I could have enjoyed it even better.

Autonomy

The theoretical range should allow you to drive almost 100km but the reality may be quite different but not necessarily for the reasons you might imagine. If I drive with both motors and use electric assistance often, I can travel about 10 kilometers per battery level and there are 5 battery levels. You can therefore count on around 50 km of autonomy with maximum assistance. If you use a single motor and have the courage to pedal, you should be able to reach 100 kilometers but it won't be easy. For what? The drive mechanism is so responsive that even if you pedal, the motor will very quickly assist you quite significantly. Even if you want to pedal, the motor assistance will still intervene quickly enough to offer you very effective pedaling assistance and therefore even if in principle you want to use the strength of your legs, the bike will still help you.

Manual

Here are two links to download the Lankeleisi X3000 Max manual in French and English:

Manual in French a>
English manual

Conclusion / Opinion

This Lankeleisi X3000 Max is my first fat bike and my test therefore reflects this first experience a bit as if I were discovering something for the first time. I don't consider myself a great sportsman but I try to ride at least 2 hours per week riding to the maximum of my capacity, I mainly use my road bike which does not have electric assistance but I sometimes use other assisted road bikes. So I don't have the typical profile for a fat bike but I really liked testing this Lankeleisi X3000 Max for the sensations it provides.

The combination of the two engines is clearly the strong point of this bike. With a single motor, the bike works well but doesn't really provide great sensations. With the second engine, the experience is completely different. The bike has an exceptional torque of 95 Nm and when starting off, you will spin both wheels because it is so responsive. With such torque and a power of 2000 watts, you can a priori tackle any type of climb (up to 35% in theory) without tiring yourself out too much. The assistance is very effective and pedaling becomes a formal activity because the assistance is such that you hardly need to make any effort to move the bike forward. If you don't have good physical condition, this bike can give you a big boost!

The bike is limited to 25 km/h but you can release it quite easily using the control on the left on the handlebars. With both engines and the assistance level at maximum, you can easily exceed 40 km/h. I've never managed to go above 45km/h on flat ground but that's probably because of my weight. With this level of speed, you enter another category of bike and you will need a good helmet and probably compulsory insurance (this depends on your legislation). This ease of reaching 40 km/h or more is another strength of this bike but you have to be aware that at this speed, you take more risks and not necessarily those you might think of. I'm thinking in particular of the reaction of others on the road who probably don't expect a bike to go that fast.

The battery life is quite good and I was even positively surprised because with the power of the engine I thought that I would not be able to drive for long at full throttle but that is not the case. On my route in the woods where I used the bike at maximum almost all the time, I consumed one bar of battery for every 10 kilometers traveled. You can therefore hope to reach 50 kilometers with significant use of assistance and if you manage to use your legs rather than the engine, you can probably approach 100 kilometers. The assistance is so interventionist that you will not easily be able to put your legs to the test.

The suspensions and the saddle provide great riding comfort but you must not forget to adjust the suspensions to adapt them to the type of terrain. I had left the suspensions on the firmest level before driving on cobblestones, I was shaken solidly whereas with a softer setting this does not pose a problem. The size of the saddle provides additional comfort which is not negligible. I'm used to riding with thin, hard saddles (road bike), I felt like I was sitting in an armchair with this kind of saddle.

This bike therefore has undeniable qualities and will bring you exceptional riding pleasure provided you are aware of a certain number of elements specific to this type of bike. First there is the weight and bulk. The bike is heavy and takes up space, so you won't be able to handle it as easily as a normal bike. You can fold it but not for the purpose of transporting it because it is too heavy, you need to see it more from the perspective of being able to store it more easily. Its size also has an influence on its turning radius; this type of bike needs more space to turn than a normal bike.

You also have to be aware of the brutality of the bike because as I wrote, the torque can surprise you and you have to learn to control the bike. You also have to be aware of the latency in the assistance, the bike will not react immediately but when it does react it will do so with force. When you ride you will clearly feel a significant difference between the times when assistance intervenes and the times when it does not intervene.

Braking also requires a little control. The controls are reversed compared to a normal bike and the rear brake is less powerful than the front brake (at least on my bike), so it is better to use both brakes at the same time, the combination of the two offers a Impressive stopping power.

Strengths

Engine power
Torque/Responsiveness
Driving pleasure
Speed
Smooth gear change
Support Level
Road comfort
Pendant lights
Large saddle
Powerful braking (with both brakes)
Basic equipment
Battery life (even with assistance)

Weaknesses

Screen readability
Rear brake not powerful enough
Support latency
Saddle/pedal distance (not suitable for large sizes)

If this bike tempts you, don't forget that you can get a €100 reduction with the following link:
Lankeleisi X3000 Max / official website
The discount will be applied automatically at cart level.

LAURENT WILLEN
Head of myself on this blog

I share my passions on my blog in my free time since 2006, I prefer that to watching nonsense on TV or on social networks. I work alone, I am undoubtedly one of the last survivors of the world of blogs and personal sites.

My speciality? Digital in all its forms. I have spent the last 25 years working for multinationals where I managed digital teams and generated revenues of over €500 million per year. I have expertise in telecoms, media, aviation, travel and tourism.